Moreish, tasting menu

As the opening strains of Miles Davis’ Flamenco Sketches filled the room at Moreish I said to myself, ah that John Coltrane, he’s amazing. A part of my brain did try to tell me that I was not listening to Coltrane and that the sound was not coming from a saxophone but what the hell. Sometimes things aren’t what you expect and they still turn out pretty well.

Those few moments of pleasant confusion aren’t unlike the evening and the tasting menu at the restaurant. The last tasting menu I experienced was at Bell’s Diner and there were froths, truffle, gelatine cannelloni and fine dining service. It was a beautiful dinner in an intimate surrounding which stretched out over four hours.

I was expecting something similar at Moreish but I was wrong, luckily. We booked dinner there for Father’s Day and the restaurant were aware that we were bringing a pram and a baby along so they gave us a table with plenty of space around it. We took their earliest time slot of 6.30, had most of the dining room to ourselves and when a party of eight or so arrived they had three children with them so we weren’t going to be the noisiest ones there. A bonus.

The tasting menu was hearty and delicious. I say hearty in contrast to the delicate menu at Bell’s. There was a cool cucumber soup with fresh crab salad; a slab of pate with onion chutney and toasted brioche;  seared fillet of beef, horseradish rosti, sautéed spinach, wild mushrooms and port ju which was spectacular;  mini rhubarb trifle; chocolate mousse with salt caramel and honeycomb; and it finished with a selection of English cheeses, each served with its own accompaniment and cracker.

All the food was great while the salt caramel in the chocolate mousse and the fillet of beef were exceptional treats. The service was prompt, the prosecco was lovely and equally importantly the whole experience was family friendly. Our little girl, Mersina, spent most of the night on her father’s lap or out wandering the streets in her father’s arms when too tired. When I took her downstairs with me to the bathroom, a voice called out to warn me about the slight step just past the main stairwell.

I don’t think we could have had a nicer experience with a tasting menu and a four month old baby. I was very impressed. Just like my confusion with the jazz, I may not have got it quite right but there’s little to be blue about either way.


Tasting menu is £60 a head. Moreish, 6 Chandos Rd, Redland.  0117 970 6078.

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